Death Valley and its neighbor Panamint Valley call to me and bid me return each year during the Panamint Valley Days 4WD event that Cal 4 Wheel puts on. This year we chose to revisit the Goler Wash into Butte Valley run that we enjoyed so much in the past.

Beginning at Ballarat, which lies approx 3.5 miles off of the Trona-Wildrose Rd (California 178), Ballarat is a classic California ghost town. Once bustling and important, Ballarat is now only some adobe buildings which are busy going back to the earth, a graveyard, and one general store that serves the simple needs of the campers and 4 wheelers that base explorations out of here. Ballarat was officially established with a post office opening in 1897 but nearby Post Office Springs had been used as a point of communications in earlier times when the stage coach would pick up mail that was hung on a tree at the natural springs. There are two things in Death Valley that practically guarantee community support among the desert dwellers: water you can depend on and mineral wealth. Ballarat had both for a time and it grew to multiple saloons, hotels, a school, jail, morgue, but, the story is told…not one church. In 1917, the post office closed leaving Ballarat to the hands of several desert packrats, characters like Seldom Seen Slim. Looking over the lonely, windswept gravemarkers of early settlers and miners and on towards the looming mountain ranges on both sides of the valley floor, it is obvious that God was and is here as testified by the beauty of creation.

From Ballarat, we turned south on Wingate Rd. towards the Briggs gold mine and passed the mine after 8 miles or so of bumpy, dusty road. Keep out of the lake bed to the right as it is deceptively harmless looking but would be a sticky trap to any vehicle that tried to cross it. 15 miles pass till the road bears left (sign reads P52) and east towards a cleft in the mountains.

Goler Wash can vary in difficulty and in late 2006, was an SUV road due to grading operations all the way into the Barker Ranch. Turning into the mountains, you almost immediately enter a narrow and tall canyon with rock walls all around. A unique species of barrel cactus grows in the canyon walls (and not much else!). Keep an eye out for burros and Big Horn sheep. The first site we stopped to investigate was the Newman Cabin, the headquarters for the Newman Mine.

Back on the trail, we headed up canyon to our next stop at the Barker Ranch. You will come to a Y in the trail at the Death Valley National Park sign. Bear right toward the Barker Ranch. Famous (or infamous) as the site of the capture of Charles Manson, there are tons of internet info on the whole deal, but the ranch is still pretty intact with the kitchen cabinet that Manson was found hiding under, the swimming pool made of rock, and the sentry chairs set in concrete upon the hill behind the ranch. In the right season, fruit trees supply pomegranites.

From here we turned back toward Goler Wash but took a twisty side trail that climbs up a narrow ridge to the right just back from the ranch building before dropping back onto the main road. This was an optional, but more challenging side route. Continuing on after turning right onto the main trail again, the road becomes a bit more technical and it really is 4WD only from here on. Don’t make the mistake of overestimating your vehicles capabilities or you may stay longer in Panamint Valley than you intended! After a rocky section or two you will summit at Mengel Pass, 4328’. A grave marker testifies to the life of Carl Mengel whose ashes are interred here.

Continuing on past the ever present winds that blow at this time of year (early winter) on the pass, we head into Butte Valley down through the last and most technical section of the trail. We followed the road, always staying towards the south west side of the valley to investigate several cabins that are kept up for overnight visitors. The first we visited was Russel Camp and then the Geologists cabin. There are others we did not stop to check out for time purposes. Always in the distance is Striped Butte, a unique geological outcropping rising out of the valley floor.

We returned to the main road and retraced our steps, this time skipping the little twisty challenge near the Barker Ranch and instead continuing on the main road. The dusty return to Ballarat left us watching the sunset fall in Panamint Valley at the end of one more adventure. As you can see, it is a family affair for those who attend any Cal 4 Wheel event.

The Panamint and Death Valley area is a tremendous resource for backcountry explorations with a 4WD or high clearance vehicle, but be aware that some times of the year, especially summer, are not wise times to visit and travel off into the hills. And, in flash flood conditions, the narrow washes leave little room for escape should you be caught there in a thunderstorm.

Here are some links for more info to begin your adventures:

www.death.valley.national-park.com/visit.htm
www.fopv.org/
www.nps.gov/deva/
www.deathvalley.com/
4x4books.com/gtcas.htm

GPS Waypoints: These may be inacccurate due to variations in reception or equipment. Use your own judgement accordingly.

Ballarat – 36* 02.952N 117* 13.572W
Turn left to P52 – 35* 51.551N 117* 10792W
Entrance to Goler Wash – 35* 51.608N 117* 09.440W
Newman Cabin – 35* 51.730N 117* 07.619W
Right turn at Death Valley Natl. Park sign to Barker Ranch – 35* 51.629N 117* 05.802W
Barker Ranch – 35* 51.534N 117* 05.320W
Back to main trail after Barker Ranch – 35* 51.717N 117* 05.641W
Mengel Pass – 35* 53.998W 117* 04.936W
1st cabin in Butte Valley – 35* 54.779N 117* 05.350W
2nd cabin Butte Valley – 35* 54.948N 117* 05.177W
3rd cabin (geologists) in Butte Valley – 35* 55.405N 117* 05.085W

Nearby Geocaches as of 11/2006

Nadeau 36*02.672N 117* 20.255W GC1562
Slate Range Crossing 35* 57.617N 117* 19.991W GCJGYE
Nadeau and 178 36* 00.213N 117* 20.079W GCNRJR